July 11, 2023

The weather is absolutely clear today. I am glad to be stationed in Bir for next three days and it means that I don’t have to rush through like last few days.

In the morning, I get into a deep conversation with my roommate about the importance of self-love, energy, meditation. Staying in Bir for over two months now, she has a lot to share about the people and her life here so far. Most of the times, I listen to what she has to say with occasional inputs. In the calm energy of the surroundings; I don’t feel the need to talk.

I make a mental note of few places and cafes recommended by her.

The other two occupants dress up and make an early exit to experience paragliding while I take another round of nap 😊

For a dormitory, this has been the most spacious stay during my travel so far. There’s enough room to walk around, clean beds and comfortable corners to just crash in. The only drawback is my bed tucked in a corner away from the window and constantly facing the walls, make me a bit claustrophobic.

Good part – my shoes are finally dry after two days.

Chokling Monastery

I first head out to Choklimg monastery (as popularly known) right in front. A board reads “Peme Awam Choegar Gyurmeyling monastery” – its full name.

An elderly monk greets me with a sweet smile. Colourful flags adorn the vast complex with temples, stupa and residential quarters for the monks. I walk inside a hall where some renovation is going on and take my own sweet time to admire the artwork on the walls which depict various stages of Buddha’s life. My concentration is broken from the sound of prayers in the next hall. I sit for a while in meditation in awe of the quietness aound.

When I come out, I see two little girls immersed in their phones while their mothers are sweeping the complex area. I sit on the hall footsteps and watch them for a while. Right in the center, a large statue of Padmasambhava is a prominent visual attraction. Far across the sky, I can see people paragliding.

Bir has such a plethora of options when it comes to the cafes around. It’s difficult to pick a favourite as everyone has something special to offer. Food here is not on the cheaper side. If staying in a budget hostel (many backpacking options), you can balance to spend on food and explore the cafes.

You will find a lot of Tibetan food and Himachali food options in the menus everywhere.

Bhumi Cafe

I visit Bhumi Café for brunch, the most recommended one . This cute little outlet is right behind the Chokling monastery and from a spacious seating corner to myself, I enjoy the view outside. It’s mid-day and the place seems occupied by a few regular ones though I’m sure it would be a different scene during peak times.

Soon, a wholesome rainbow sandwich and French fries is served by an adorable lady. I literally dig into it and soon tired of how filling it is.

Deer Park Institute

After leaving the café, I navigate my way through the silent lanes to Deer Park Institute. As I slowly push the half-opened gates, it seems like I’m being engulfed by a visual aura of calmness.

I come to know that it is an education center for the study of age-old wisdom rooted in classic Indian traditions. They offer many residential courses and the details can be found on their website. First, I take few minutes to sit on a bench and calmly absorb the tranquility. I am amazed by the cordial staff and how beautifully every visitor blends in here. In the next half an hour, except for some people (probably enrolled in one of the programs); only one lady walks in. She sits on the other end of the bench. We have a well-defined physical gap though I realize that in our silence and a momentary eye contact followed by a heartwarming smile, we have a lot in common.

Right in front is the prayer hall. I walk inside the emptiness and further sit for a few minutes of meditation. It seems like I am going into an undefined state of “nothingness”. I precisely have no thoughts except for a deep sense of gratitude.

Outside, I see a board which states that free meditation classes are held every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. I decide to get more information about it but quickly change my mind. I don’t feel like indulging in a dialogue with anyone.

It’s hot outside and I get back to my room with hurried steps. Few minutes later, a sudden urge for coffee makes me grab my bag and head out again around 4 PM. Honestly, I’m liking this unexpected and unhurried pace with no fixed plans.

I don’t find many stalls like other hill towns selling momos or street food. I keep walking past many cafes unsure on what I want exactly until the name “Mafia Café” grabs my attention. It turns out really nice and my noodles are accompanied with great views.

Bir Landing Site

Now, I am ready to visit the most popular spot in Bir – the landing site just about a km from the town. The weather is comparatively favourable for paragliding. I do not want to experience this alone and simply watch the sunset. From the main Bir area till here, you will walk past numerous cafes – probably some of them you might have frequently seen on social media platforms.

The landing site is an interesting place – like a picnic spot. There’s so much happening around. It is here that you will see hawkers selling street delicacies, tea, desi bhutta (corn) and what not! Young women and girls would approach you to dress up in local attire and get clicked. While youngsters in a group would line up for the adventure activity, the elders would be given the task of capturing the entire ordeal of them flying up in the air.

I roam around and further walk beyond the site for a while. On my way back, I find a group of children playing and stop by to exchange few words.

When I come back, I find my roommate again on phone at her loudest. The silent state of my mind is broken as someone threw a pebble in still water. I politely walk to the reception and request for a room upgrade, if possible. It is, though the extra price is going to be from my own pocket which I cannot afford now.

I decide to accept the situation as it’s a matter of just two days. Unaware of my presence, she is still ranting on the phone. I take my laptop and go back to Chokling monastery. Children are playing in the garden area while their mothers are chanting with prayer beads in hands. In between, I get a warm smile from an old lady every time she crosses me during her rounds. The whole picture of gentleness is enough to make me take control of my emotions and I resume my writing.

As I am about to leave, I find my roommate calmly feeding the dogs around. I walk back and find that two occupants have already checked out. I shift my bed to another which gives me more space and a window access.

In the night, my roommate offers me a coffee and shares about herself. I have nothing much to say but I feel good on handling the situation with patience. For a moment, I wonder what if I had reacted and confronted her instead of walking away in the evening! We would not have been chatting with coffee in hand now. There lies the greatest everyday realisation; all we humans want is to be heard with a little space to let our emotions flow – not keeping it bottled inside.

That’s how the “Mountains, Monasteries and Meditation” affected me in a day here.

I remind myself gently about the morning meditation session. I am in no mood to get up early and hence, decide to let it go – unless it’s happening on its own. Tucked inside the blanket; I read, write and call it a night.

It’s been a great day 💕😇☘️🍁

I am sharing details of my Himachal travel through my blog – mostly unedited versions.

Previous posts in the series:

Himachal Diaries – 2023

A town named ” Kangra”

Visiting Masrur Rock Temples

Exploring Old Kangra

Kangra to Andretta – A Failed Train Journey

The Little hamlet “Andretta”