July 10, 2023
I get up early today (the first time in five days) – fresh after a hectic and sleep-deprived day. It’s a beautiful morning. The hills and fields outside look vaguely covered in dew drops.
I make myself a cup of tea and sit by the window to enjoy the view in silence though not for long. I remind myself that I have to move towards Bir today. I wish I had booked for another day. If you are coming all the way, please make a note to stay at least two nights in Andretta – just to unwind and slow down a bit.
My shoes and bag are still moist and not completely Sun-dried.
The bags rearranged; I decide to explore Andretta in the first half. The rain is back in action and my trusted umbrella keeps me safe on my walk through the village.
I had heard a lot about the artist’s colony, Andretta. A handful of articles about it intrigued me to explore this place. This village was always on my must-visit list though I did not research much. Such places are best discovered at your own pace and rhythm.
There are notably three main attractions not to be missed here.
Sobha Singh Art Gallery
Less than a km away from my homestay was Sobha Singh art gallery – the abode of renowned painter, Sardar Sobha Singh who settled in Andretta in 1947. This place precisely has the house he lived in, his studio and an art gallery. He was a great philosopher and many of his life portraits are evidence of a spiritual soul. Here, you can see his paintings on national heroes, freedom fighters, love legends, spiritual gurus – the one on Guru Gobind Singh being considered the most remarkable. The museum is currently managed by his daughter and her family.
Entry fee – Rs 25 (Photography is not allowed inside the gallery and museum – only in the outer premises)
Ritu shows me around. She is a fine arts student and takes care of “Prampara – The Souvenir Shop” at the entrance.
After spending about an hour inside and getting few insights about the artist, I come out. To my surprise, the resemblance between him and Guru Rabindranath Tagore is uncanny. Ritu also reciprocates my thoughts.
Next, I move towards a lane heading right into the heart of the village with a sign saying – Andretta Pottery (Working Studio Pottery) and Museum.
On my way, lies the house of Norah Richards – a theater artist from England who made Andretta her home after her husband’s demise. Gradually, she cultivated the place into a hub of theater and art. Legendary actors like Prithviraj Kapoor and Balraj Sahni frequented this village. The painter, Sobha Singh was also one of her close friends.
The house looks deserted though I could hear dogs barking. Without being too inquisitive, I move ahead towards the pottery studio.
Andretta Pottery
Andretta pottery is famous worldwide (after this village) for its natural terracotta and glaze. I see a workshop in progress with young and elderly getting their hands on the wheel. I’m the only visitor for the day and it makes me a bit hesitant to approach anyone as they are deeply immersed in their work. With some apprehension, I approach the owner and introduce myself asking for a permission to look around. He readily obliges.
At the far corner, I see an elderly potter and walk up to him. Capturing his work or making a video seems a bit intrusive and I let go of the idea. We talk about the weather as an ice-breaker and gradually shift to details on the craft.
By now, it is clear to me that Andretta indeed was a place where great artistic minds got together and this unique artistic colony came to life. Many successors and artists from today’s generation are trying their best to keep the rich legacy alive.
Taking a random stroll through the village while soaking in its pristine backdrop in the rain, I walk back to my homestay.
After checking out, Tushar (the homestay owner) drops me till the bus stop. I take a bus for Baijnath. Any bus from Palampur till Jaisinghpur goes via Panchrukhi.
Panchrukhi till Baijnath – Rs 25
I have strongly started believing in the divine timing. Without any fixed plans, I reach Baijnath on the first sawan somvar – an auspicious day for Hindus. The rain has slowed down. The place has all my favourites – an ancient temple, an architecture lover’s delight and the breathtaking mountains.
What more to ask for? The divine knows it all.
The temple is right across the road from the bus stand. The only concern is no place to keep my luggage and I keep carrying it all along.
The bus to Bir arrives at around 3 PM leaving me with the time to have lunch.
Baijnath to Bir – Rs 30
The distance is not far. I keep my phone aside, trying to capture the beauty around to the tunes of Himachali songs.
It has stopped raining. I get down at Chougan chowk from where it takes around 20 mins to reach my stay, Chokling art house right next to the Chokling monastery.
As I walk inside the dormitory, I hear someone on the phone. Natasha introduces herself and I see few more bags lying around which indicates more occupants.
Suddenly, I realize that all my privacy is gone. I decide to rest for the evening. After changing into a fresh pair of clothes, I take a nap which is followed by a quite evening with coffee by the window.
I only head out late evening when the hunger is at its peak. The place bears no signs of tourists around – just a handful including me. Relishing a plate of Rajma chawal, I come back. The whole evening is spent on phone calls. A part of Himachal (Kullu-Manali-Mandi) is completely devasted and flooded. I decide that it’s time to head back from here refraining myself from going any further.
I am sharing details of my Himachal travel through my blog – mostly unedited versions. Read the next – The Little hamlet “Andretta”
Previous posts in the series:
A Merakulous Life 
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