July 06, 2023

Getting down from the bus, I look at this little town which still seems to be sleeping from last night and here, I have travelled all the way. Like most weekend tourists heading to the upper terrains of Dharamshala or McLeodGanj, I too had passed through it earlier – never giving it much of a thought. I am a bit unsure about why did I choose to come here? Well, it was a last minute decision looking at the weather conditions in Mandi and Kullu areas (my earlier choice).

Nevertheless, I start searching for my stay. As I near the landmark, GPS keeps telling me “You have arrived at your destination” for countless times until I shut it off. Sleepless with an overnight journey, I couldn’t see a big vertical signboard with my stay’s name in bold letters right in front until someone guides me. I have already wasted around 20 minutes walking from here to there.

I promise myself to be in better senses after a nice sleep.

Its a four-storeyed building which houses my homestay on the third floor. First, I struggle to open the gate and then make my way up. Another waiting time goes to wake up the caretaker of the property who is in no mood to open his eyes and doesn’t pay much attention to my queries. I manage to get his name, the room keys and decide to take it slow for the next two days.

The stay is on the main road; at a walking distance from the bus stop and market but at a considerable distance to avoid unwanted disturbance. I check all the brands around; Barista, Reliance Mart, Dominos, Wildcraft – you name it. For a moment, I think that I could have come with an empty bag from Delhi as this place has it all.

The room is comfortable and too spacious for me to roam around. I go out for lunch, come back and sleep. There is something about small hill towns to make you slow down, take a note of your own self.

Hello Kangra – A morning view from my room before the showers poured in

By the time I am finally ready to go out and explore, it begins to drizzle and I end up in the café at front – Big Mugs Café. Standing in the balcony, I was looking at the café and yearning to get a cup of coffee since long.

It doesn’t stop to rain and gives me the perfect premises to get back in bed again. Suddenly, the weather clears after 5:30 pm and I head out. By now, I have lost count of the numerous trips up and down the stairs taken since my arrival.

If I had to be here, the first task was to buy an umbrella and begins the “Mission Umbrella” not before helping myself to a bhutta (Corn) on the way. Kangra is a good base for budget travellers as you will definitely find something or the other to suit your pockets.

Many shops and varieties later, I finally negotiate and get a bright red-colored umbrella which is extremely unlike my choice – definitely I have not come all the way to buy an umbrella. So, I better at least make something out of my first day (honestly, it was just going perfect).

Trying to finalize my Umbrella

And now with the umbrella in possession, I walk confidently enquiring about the way to the Shaktipeeth Shri Bajreshwari Devi temple (locally famous as Kangra Devi). The rain has completely ceased by now but the market area is not very pleasant to walk in the dampness. Regardless, I start taking a note of the happenings nearby.

It’s a usual evening scene in an Indian town – hawkers and vegetable-sellers in their peak hours, people returning from their work, socializing over tea, children playing in the big ground and so on. The umbrella sellers were suddenly in demand. In the midst, my attention is caught by a man dyeing clothes. I ask him for the temple directions and he tells me about the fort and Old Kangra part too.

The narrow lanes begin to give the feel of a Hindu temple with shops on both sides selling everything which can be counted as a worship item. The old man at the shoe stand does not charge me asking not to worry about it and take as much time as I want inside the temple.

Kangra temple is an important place of Hindu worship and considered one of the shaktipeeths where Devi Sati’s body parts fell. The pristine white temple stands with Dhauladhar mountains as its majestic background.

Shaktipeeth Shri Bajreshwari Devi/ Kangra Devi temple

I reach just few minutes prior to the evening aarti and suddenly find a sea of people emerge out of nowhere. I don’t want to let my peaceful zone go and decide to sit outside instead of going inside the sanctum area. All this while, my ears are attuned to the sound of the bells with my gaze fixed at the mountains behind and hands folded for prayer. Some moments in life are difficult to describe.

Ten minutes post the aarti, the crowd begins to leave the sanctum area and head to a room which is presumably the langar or the prasad area. Due to rain, the surroundings are not too appealing though without realization, I go inside as if instructed by someone. The room is flocked by local families and looking at my struggle, one girl offers me a plate. I sit in a corner as a spectator to the happenings around. I realize that I haven’t spoken a word since few hours.

Suddenly, a strange sense of belongingness engulfs me. It’s past 8 PM, all the shops are gradually preparing to wind up. The town is ready to call it a night. My steps are hurried though my doubts and anxieties are gone. It seems like I am in the right place at the right time. I cannot help but feel the blessings of a divine power. From here on, everything is going to be right.

Food saga of the day (Coffee at Big Mugs till the Langar at Kangra Devi temple)

I am trying to document my ongoing travel through my blog – without much edits and real time captures.

Read the next: Visiting Masrur Rock Temples

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Himachal Diaries – 2023