“A scene from the movie “Piku” always resonates with me..
While on their journey from Delhi to Kolkata, Piku and Rana sit on the ghats of Varanasi – a beautiful chemistry between them. But it’s the intense need to be alone in Piku’s silent demeanour is what many of us will clearly identify with. To be guilt-free and just breathe somewhere in silence for a while, to be away from practically everything and everyone without being answerable.
I have visited Rishikesh many times in the past but always accompanied by someone. It was a long-time desire to be there on my own which finally happened when I took a few days off last year before my long- term travel ahead.
Attending Ganga aartis, walking through the familiar and new paths, singing bhajans with strangers, eating my heart out at cafes and ashrams – most important sit by the ghats in nights in absolute silence (for as long as it was allowed)“.
Rishikesh could mean so much, in so many different ways to every individual, depending on how you perceive it. Here, religious offerings and spirituality go hand-in-hand with the explorer and adventurous crowd. There is no dearth of seekers in Rishikesh seeming to roam aimlessly, oblivious and some equally aware of their surroundings. Regardless, it literally attracts everyone to its core for no reason.
While Tapovan and Laxman Jhula areas mostly cater to a comparatively younger crowd; when you move towards Ram Jhula, the scenario changes with a smooth and natural transition to an elderly crowd. In one part of the town; you’ll find young artists, musicians, explorers, travelers with a vibrant energy swarming the stunning cafes; the other part slowly replaces it with temple bells, soulful bhajans and evening Ganga aartis.
It’s a difficult pick but maybe, you will like it exactly as you feel and seek in the moment – such is the unique charm of Rishikesh.
Not sure what exactly I was looking for, though I really wanted to go alone. Socializing being the least on my agenda, I decided to stay in one of the ashrams. Parmarth Niketan was unanimously on my mind and of course, to attend their renowned Ganga aarti.
October 12, 2023
Reaching Rishikesh
Though I try my best to start early, the timings of Indian state transport buses are never in your control. I wait at the Delhi ISBT itself for almost an hour for the bus to move. The middle-aged Nepali couple sitting in front tell me about their journey to many Indian states and religious places, now equally excited about travelling to Uttarakhand. I am invited at every stop to join them for lunch or tea, which I politely decline. Most of my responses are in smiles and minimum words until we reach Haridwar where they get down but not before showering me with best wishes. I reciprocate whole heartedly before we move ahead.
After numerous halts and spending almost an hour in Haridwar (precisely Haridwar bus stand), I finally reach Rishikesh around evening. Enroute, the glimpses of “Haridwar” while passing by and the gradual transition from plains to the Himalayan foothills literally engulfs me.
In no time, a sudden halt of the bus and the conductor instructs us to get down. If you’re coming to Rishikesh for the first time, do not get disheartened and expect much “peace” from right here. Be prepared that the scenes at any Indian bus stop and railway stations have a feel or rather a peculiar way of their own – honking buses, autos, people shouting at the topmost pitch, hawkers blocking your way at every step and you being pounced upon from every possible direction. If you do not act quickly, chances are, you’ll literally be escorted back on the same route or even the same bus back to the original destination. The more touristy the place, the severe the intensity.
I take a deep breath reminding this is a familiar place and board an e-rickshaw till Janki Setu which is an unbelievable task considering it’s almost the evening aarti time. Seems as if both the crowd of people and the transport fares are rising in proportion to the waves of Ganga. Even walking from Janaki Setu with my heavy rucksack till Parmarth Niketan takes more than the expected time.
Once inside the campus, I literally come back to senses.
In all the check-in procedures and settling in, I realize that it’s difficult to make my way through those already gathered around the Parmarth Niketan Ghat. I give the aarti a skip for the day and simply decide to take a walk outside.
Being in the most familiar part of Rishikesh feels like meeting a long-lost friend, catching up exactly from where we left last – about a year ago. Together, we roam around the lanes of Ram Jhula; making way for the cows, talking to the street hawkers and gorging on a visual feast of the displays around. In most ashrams, the dinner is almost over. Starving but unable to decide, what to help myself with, I simply opt for fruits.
While coming back, I make myself a seat on the stairs near the Geeta Bhavan Ghat, silently watching some special rituals being performed – powerful yet soothing.
Back to the ashram campus, I roam around for a while before retiring to my room. Even with a steady crowd of visitors and activities going around, the feel here is utterly peaceful – the kirtan from an adjacent prayer hall beautifully synchronizes with the gentle wind outside.
Tired, I don’t take much time to fall asleep.
October 13, 2023
A Day in Rishikesh
As much as I want to get up for an early morning Yoga session, my body refuses flatly. So, when I finally do; the ashram activities are already in full swing. I decide not to let the guilt overcome me and take each moment slowly – at my own pace.
Nostalgia seeps in as I recall the first time, I visited Rishikesh decades back. This is the Rishikesh we were introduced to by my father – the area around Ram Jhula, home to several ancient ashrams. Back then, probably places like backpacker hostels and most new-age cafes didn’t even exist.
Now, more firm structures are built over the earlier frames. Its strange that even after frequently visiting Rishikesh, I never had the time to relive some childhood memories. Maybe, it was about time.
I first walk till the Geeta Bhavan – a prominent and historic ashram known for its dedication to promoting the Bhagavad Gita teachings and other Hindu scriptures. Nestled along the serene banks of the Ganges River, it indeed is a sanctuary for spiritual seekers, pilgrims, and devotees. I categorically remember the Satvik (pure) food they serve with great love and affection. On an impulse, I decide to have my lunch here.
At the counter, while collecting my coupon; I meet one of the old ashram trustees, also from Odisha (my state). He’s happy to speak with me in my mother tongue and invites for the evening Geeta session.
Current Food Timings at Geeta Bhavan – (11 am -1 pm/ 7 pm -9 pm)
Cost – Rs 50 per thali (plate)
The earlier hall where all the devotees would sit on the clean floor is now replaced by a large dining hall – tables and chairs arranged meticulously. What has still not changed is their nutritious vegetarian meals, a familiar aroma. To my dismay, some visitors are running on an extremely low patience level, not ready to wait even for a second for the food – still wanting everything fresh and hot.
Post lunch, I bask in the afternoon Sun for a while, visit their Geeta library and make my way outside.
Next, visiting the neighbouring Swarg Ashram – one of the oldest ashrams in Rishikesh, comes naturally. This ashram complex houses numerous temples, meditation halls, and residential quarters for devotees. It’s almost midday, most morning ashram rituals are over and the crowd around is manageable. What seems intact in this part is the familiar feel of countless individuals on their spiritual journeys in search of peace, wisdom, and enlightenment.
Fondly, I recall the childhood memories of visiting with family years ago – us listening and trying to understand everything my father would explain. Lives were simpler, religious family outings were so much in accord with the teachings and nothing less than a sacred journey taken together.
The scenario is changing – each one is on their own quest, on their own life paths.
In the mundane life in Rishikesh, there’s no chance you will miss the various renditions of popular chants and not sing along.
After roaming around the ghats for the entire afternoon, I go back to my room and freshen up for the evening.
Suddenly, I decide to head towards Triveni Ghat instead of Parmarth NIketan for the aarti.
Before the dusk began to settle over the serene town, I make my way to the Triveni ghat, following the path along the Ganges River. The ghat was already buzzing with activity when I arrive. Devotees, tourists, and locals – everyone had gathered. The air is thick with the scent of incense and the sound of temple bells, mingles with the distant hum of prayers and the soft, rhythmic flow of the Ganges.
Finding a spot away from the crowd, I absorb the surroundings of Triveni Ghat. Named for the confluence of three sacred rivers—the Ganges, the Yamuna, and the mythical Saraswati; it was a wide, open expanse with steps leading down to the river. While people were performing rituals, offering prayers, and taking holy dips; I observe the hawkers trying to make some errands.
I call one of them, buy a coffee and request him to click few pictures 😊
The aarti ceremony begins just as the sky turns a deep indigo. Priests dressed in saffron robes take their places on raised platforms, with flickering flames of large oil lamps. The head priest begins to chant, raising the lamp in high circular motions. Soon, the chanting grows louder and more rhythmic with almost everyone singing along. I do the same, even though I don’t know all the words. The energy is contagious, and soon I find myself swept up in the collective devotion. Hands folded in prayer, a deep sense of peace and connectedness washes over.
After the ceremony, I linger by the river, watching as small diyas (oil lamps) are set afloat on the water – each carrying a prayer or a wish. While leaving Triveni Ghat that night, I feel a profound sense of renewal. The aarti had not only been a powerful spiritual experience but also a reminder of the enduring power of faith.
The traffic is completely chaotic by now. I take an auto back till Janki Setu, not to break the trance by the constant honking and noise around.
On my way, I visit the Yog Niketan ashram. Due to some social gathering, their dining hall is closed for the day. The watchman is familiar by now, greeting me with a warm smile every time I pass by the ashram. In fact, we get into a small conversation. I take a stroll around the campus and come out to silently sit on their ghat. It was the first time I observe an illuminated Janaki Setu – beautifully lit. Just behind me, a group of elderly ladies begin reciting the Hanuman Chalisa. In flow of the happenings, I join in, eyes closed and transported into a different world. Probably, they don’t even notice me.
It’s not until I go back to my room that I realize, I haven’t eaten anything since afternoon. I do not feel even an ounce of hunger as if not only my stomach, but my entire soul is satiated.
In the silence of my modest room which suddenly feels too luxurious, I decide to stay for another night. Again, I take notice of the two beds, the chairs with a table, a separate kitchen area – all clean and spacious.
This is pure luxury indeed.
A Merakulous Life 
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