July 09, 2023

I couldn’t sleep the previous night and wake up with a severe headache. There was no electricity, no power backup and till late, I could hear some guests complaining at the loudest possible. There was no point in complaining. The weather was turning worse and I was fortunate to be under a safe roof.

A Troubled Morning

Without electricity, neither my phone nor the laptop is fully charged. It’s cold but I can’t get a hot shower. I calm myself, pack my remaining stuff, get ready and call the owner before checking out. After some persuasion, he agrees to refund a certain amount for the discomfort and chaos.

Adding to my woes, it is still raining and doesn’t look like a clear weather for the day. Dark clouds and heavy showers are pouring in endlessly. As I had enquired earlier, I need to reach the station before 9 AM to be able to board the 9:36 AM train which goes to a place named Panchrukhi. From there, I am supposed to head few kilometers to an artist’s village named, Andretta. I check an Air B&B stay online and call the owner giving a confirmation for my stay tonight.

Getting an auto in the rain is definitely a challenge like in any Indian town. Even after using both raincoat and an umbrella, I get drenched and reach the station around 8:50 AM. There are a handful of people who casually advise me to come 15 mins prior to the train time. In all the hurry, I haven’t eaten anything and crave for a warm cup of tea. But I would rather not take the risk of missing my train. Moreover, I hardly see any shops open as it seems that everyone is keeping indoors.

Kangra Mandir Station

I decide to sit and wait and begin watching the happenings around in the Kangra Mandir Railway Station. I rarely use my phone (not charged) until I reach the next destination safely. There’s no power bank – again make a note to carry it on my travels.

A sweet reminiscence of the stories from Ruskin Bond and R K Narayan come to my rescue. I have company in few dogs who are sleeping peacefully. Meanwhile, a peasant arrives asking for the time and takes shelter on the deserted benches. Silently, I watch him smoking his heart out – as if it’s a live documentary.

Finally, the station master comes out from the next door.

I am getting a bit anxious of the weather, clumsily handling my luggage with water dripping from everywhere. I keep enquiring about the train to buy the ticket. The station master is a patient man. He calls me and calmly explains that due to the sudden downpour, the train is delayed and it’s better I take a bus else I will be late. Moreover, there is no guarantee of the train arrival in such weather. I feel disheartened as I have been waiting to take this train journey and experience the valley. For a moment, it seems the easiest way out is to head back and get inside the hotel room in this weather.

I gather myself and decide to move ahead.

Calmly making my way back to town through some of the waterlogged areas and slippery path; I cross the old wooden bridge again which connects to the main road. By now, I could feel the roaring sound of the water (under the bridge) which was calm a day before. Witnessing nature’s sudden fury is a bit scary. It seems as if the surroundings will be blown away any moment.

While waiting at Kangra Station

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Kangra – Palampur – Panchrukhi

Outside, most autos are lying empty with their owners not to be seen anywhere. A kind auto driver appears and drops me back to Kangra town. He voluntarily stops a bus heading towards Palampur and helps me board it. I call my homestay owner who advises me to get down at Panchrukhi (the destination I was supposed to reach by train).

Kangra to Palampur bus – Rs 80

Due to the weather, the phone network almost stops working beyond this point.  Mid-way, I keep trying to call and update the homestay owner but all efforts are in vain. I reach Palampur around 11:30 am and take a bus for Panchrukhi. The bus is almost empty but there’s a 15-minute-long traffic. Suddenly, I take a look at myself in the window mirror of the bus. I look so shattered and lost while others around me look absolutely fine. I realize that I am feeling distressed for the first time in last four days. Possibly, it’s the empty stomach leading to an empty mind. I take a deep breath and a short nap before the conductor calls out for me.

Palampur to Panchrukhi – Rs 20

Reaching Andretta

Panchrukhi is not too far. I reach even before I’m properly settled in the bus. I take shelter in a grocery shop. I have no answers for the shop owner who’s inquisitive about my travel in this weather but completely unwilling to let me make an emergency call from his phone. After several attempts, finally I’m able to call the owner and he comes all the way to pick me up. Finally, I reach Andretta.

As soon as I reach my stay and step inside the room, my anxieties vanish. The view outside calms me down within seconds. The rain has slowed down now. Tushar, the owner, quickly arranges a cup of tea and lunch.

First view from the homestay

Meanwhile, my traveler friend, Harsh ji arranges an auto from his place in Jandpur, a nearby village to pick me from Andretta and drop me back in the evening. I spent the late rainy afternoon with Harsh ji and his family. Over almost three hours; they shower me with much warmth and love making me forget about the ordeal since morning. A steady flow of warm food and beverages keep coming my way without a break.

With Harsh Khullar and his family

Anil ji, the driver drops me back to Andretta just in time to enjoy a beautiful sunset. Everything seems to fit in now. Tushar gets my dinner and ensures I won’t be scared alone. Since wi-fi is available here, I update my family and some close friends about my whereabouts.

Sunset view from the homestay

I spent the night in a room alone. No, it’s actually on an entire floor and building (homestay with a showroom below) alone. There’s a kitchen which I am allowed to use.  I heat the food, get warm water and make a nice cup of tea before retiring for the day.

I am sharing details of my Himachal travel through my blog – mostly unedited versions. Read the previous posts:

Himachal Diaries – 2023

A town named ” Kangra”

Visiting Masrur Rock Temples

Exploring Old Kangra