July 08, 2023
Today, I decide to start early (as a lesson from my previous day) but my laziness is at peak again from the weather.
It has been raining cats and dogs but I finally step out. Ankush, the owner at Big Mugs Café makes a large sandwich and packs half of it as it seems impossible to finish in one go. Realizing that I won’t be able to meet him, I leave a note for all the love and smile he has shared through his food over last three days.
Not every place you experience is online 😇
Reaching Kangra Fort
Visiting Kangra Fort had been on my list since long. I decide to explore the Old Kangra part and try some local cuisines, if possible.You can easily get an auto (for Rs 100-150 one way) from Kangra till the fort. If you want to be in budget, take a bus from Kangra bus stand – one heading to Nandrool village. It will drop you at a junction from where you take a downward walk to the left and reach the fort. Not too far from here.
I walked all the way from town till the milestone on right which reads “Purana Kangra – 2 kms” and instantly knew, it was a hike for me. Meanwhile, I am not so wet with rain as with people splashing water through their speeding cars.
The road is pretty straight and if you get confused, rely on the autos and vehicles plying to and fro on the road. Just follow them. I take numerous halts in between to soak in the beauty which reminds me of my days in Uttarkashi. Half a distance covered, I spot a group of monkeys and get cold feet (already cold in the rain). I wait and as an auto-driver approaches; I readily take the ride for
Rs 50 from there till the fort.
Kangra fort and surroundings
The entry fee to Kangra fort is Rs 25 (Rs 20 if you scan online). The adjoining ASI museum should be a must-visit for the history enthusiasts. It is small and well-maintained with no extra charges. On presenting a valid identity proof, you can avail a free audio guide. Here, you can scan a barcode through Google lens to download a brochure for more information.
Being a weekend, there are many visitors capturing themselves and the beauty around. I take my own sweet time to capture some motifs, architectural aspects, making notes while gorging on the remaining sandwich. It is breathtakingly magnificent and too grand to capture through your lens or conveyed through words.
Meanwhile, a girl walks up to me asking whether I’m an influencer. I smile saying “No, I’m just an explorer” and we get into a conversation over our common love for travel. After the fort, I visit the adjoining Jain temple where two students from Nepal and Jharkhand share tea, biscuits and a heartfelt conversation.
ASI Museum with Kangra Fort in background
Some displays from the ASI Museum
At Kangra Fort entrance – Ranjit singh Gate
Few captures from Kangra Fort
While walking back, I take a left to find a private museum – Maharaja Sansarchand museum. The monkey scare is not over yet when Saroj ji appears out of nowhere. She works at the museum and asks me to come along giving few tips on how to handle the monkeys. This private museum is spotlessly clean and has a beautiful art gallery. Among all the treasure it holds; I am pleasantly surprised to find a small painting of Lord Jagannath, Devi Subhadra and Lord Balabhadra. The caretaker tells me that it might have been a gift to one of the royal family members.
Entry fees – Rs 35
Separate audio tour charges (Guess, I read it as Rs 177)
Maharaja Sansarchand Museum (Inside captures not allowed)
My return journey to the town starts till I see a signboard saying U-turn for Sri Maa Durga Mahishasura Mardini Mandir. I take a detour and keep walking downward into slippery lanes following the directions. It turns out to be a beautiful, small white temple inside a home. Being odd hours, the temple is closed. I wait and request a lady to get me maa’s darshan as I have come all the way. She is convinced and instructs a little girl to get the keys and further gives me prasad too.
I can’t help but feel a divine bliss. And all this as I chose to just walk around in full awareness of nature with no rush. Monkeys keep me company for long. By now, I got so used to them, I was not scared anymore.
Taking a detour to Sri Maa Durga Mahishasura Mardini Mandir
I come back to town hungry and dig myself into a plate of Puri-Chole. It has still not stopped raining. The night is spent on and off playing hide and seek with electricity. I don’t get a sound sleep and pack my bags in installments listening to rain drops.
My stay at Kangra has come to an end and I’m already missing it. Over the last three days; I have exchanged enough smiles with the bank personnel downstairs, the lady whose Rajma- chawal I have been relishing on, the people in Reliance mart next door. The list seems endless and my solo trip after a year seems to be worthwhile 🙂
I am sharing details of my Himachal travel through my blog – mostly unedited versions.
Read the next: Kangra to Andretta – A Failed Train Journey
Previous posts in the series:
A Merakulous Life 
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